The Frugal Housewife. By
Lydia Maria Child. Andrews McMeel. $22.99.
Charlie the Ranch Dog: Where’s
the Bacon? Based on the Charlie the
Ranch Dog books by Ree Drummond and Diane deGroat. Harper. $16.99.
Charms old-fashioned and
newfangled, some for adults and some for children, are the attractions of these
books. The Frugal Housewife is a new
entry in Andrews McMeel’s “American Antiquarian Cookbook Collection,” and
“antiquarian” it certainly is: originally published in 1829, it was the first
thrift-oriented cookbook and became an instant and enduring success – going
through three dozen printings. It would be nice to report that the specifics of
its frugality are as valid today as they were in the 19th century,
but unfortunately, the cookbook is more an interesting historical document than
a timeless classic. It happens to be a lot of fun to read for those so
inclined, but most modern cooks will have some difficulty following or even
understanding many of the recipes and homespun recommendations. “A few drops of
the oil of Cajput on cotton wool is said to be a great relief to the tooth
ache.” “A spoonful of ashes stirred in cider is good to prevent sickness at the
stomach.” For arrow-root jelly, “Put rather more than a pint of water over the
fire, with some white sugar, grated nutmeg, and two spoonfuls of brandy. Stir
up a large spoonful of arrow-root powder in a cup of water, pour it in when the
water boils, stir it well and let it boil three or four minutes. This is
considered nice food in bowel complaints.” There are even some typos that have
stood the test of time: “Neat’s tongue should be boiled full thee [sic] hours.”
It is fascinating to find out, for those interested in history, that “some
people prefer pickled nasturtion seed to capers” and to learn a bit about
prices at the time when the book was written: “It is cheaper to buy one large
mackerel for ninepence, than two for fourpence half-penny.” A trip to the
dictionary or to online history and financial-conversion sites will be
necessary to clarify much of what readers will find in The Frugal Housewife, and even the book’s index takes some getting
used to: it includes entries for Alamode Beef, Britannia Ware, Cholera-morbus,
Elixir Proprietatis and Rusty black crape – plus, rather charmingly,
“Horse-Radish, kept all winter,” “Bits of meat and vegetables,” and “Rhubarb,
or Persian apple pies.” The modern cook is not likely to find much to emulate
here beyond the overall philosophy of frugal living – which is timeless. But a cook, homemaker or
any reader with an interest in what people were reading and using to guide
their home lives through much of the 19th century in the United
States will find much to enjoy in Child’s book.
A new Charlie the Ranch Dog book is child’s play – for the modern family.
Where’s the Bacon? is a Level 1 book
in the “I Can Read!” series, offering “simple sentences for eager new readers.”
The cooking element – well, the food element, anyway – is central here as
good-natured, self-important and lazy Charlie greets a dog named Rowdy from a
nearby ranch. Rowdy is staying at Charlie’s place for a few days while his
family is away, and that would be fine with Charlie – except that it turns out
that Rowdy has eaten Charlie’s breakfast (which includes bacon); and then Rowdy
gets in Charlie’s way; and then he gets a belly rub that Charlie thinks he should be getting; and eventually,
unforgivably, Rowdy takes a nap in Charlie’s bed. By then, Charlie has had more
than enough of this unruly guest, and he howls so loudly that Rowdy is
frightened and runs outside, where he cowers in the outdoor doghouse. Now
Charlie feels bad – but he finds a way to make up with Rowdy, thanks to, yes,
food. The story is simple and amusing, with editorial and artistic
contributions from Amanda Glickman and Rick Whipple being pleasantly layered
onto the original writing and art of Ree Drummond and Diane deGroat. Beginning
readers with a fondness for dogs and pleasantly underplayed adventures will
enjoy Where’s the Bacon? and will likely
come back for seconds by re-reading the book and having fun with it yet again.
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